TheBakersfieldCalifornian.com

You do not need to leave Oildale to get a great meal. But who knew that the cuisine was good enough to make the north-of-the-river burg a destination for food lovers? Anyone who has ever eaten at the Highland Cafe, that's who.

It's been too long since we raved about the North Chester restaurant, which offers superb cuisine at family-friendly prices. Close your eyes and you might think you were at The Bistro or another high-end restaurant.

I was reminded of the cafe's excellence when a reader tipped me off in the spring to the quality of the hamburgers served there as I was researching the best burgers in town. I made a vow to return for a regular dinner to see if that food was as impressive as the hamburgers and the cheesecake I tried, a baked New York- style with a crust made from Pecan Sandy cookies. While some may roll their eyes or stick their nose in the air on that, I suggest you try it. It's magical.

And that's not the only fare that could be described that way. We revisited on a recent Saturday night and ordered the pulled pork dinner ($12.95) and the stuffed pork chop with a mushroom wine cream sauce ($17.95). Both were excellent. The pulled pork, the menu assured us, was smoked with oak for three hours, then roasted overnight. It comes with two sides, and my companion chose the beans (which I loved when I sampled them with the burger) and sautéed veggies. I've always thought the best pulled pork in town comes from Champs BBQ near the airport, but Highland Café is a worthy competitor; it's a bit odd that the two restaurants are only a few miles from each other, but I guess that must be a perk the comes with living in the north. The insistent smokiness of the pork here is something you won't forget. I've long thought that the strength of the food at the Highland Café was associated with their smoker. They know how to smoke meats to infuse the flavor right into every sinewy strand. If you are a fan of Carolina pulled pork, please visit.

But the smoker, apparently, isn't the only secret weapon. What I ordered, the pork chop, showed the kitchen can handle food with admirable grace. The chop was stuffed with a mushroom/cornbread-style stuffing, but the meat itself was what impressed me. It had to be 11⁄2 inches thick; white, juicy flavorful, succulent. If this pork were available everywhere, the general public would eat it instead of chicken breasts. Wow. It was seared in olive oil, which my companion found a bit offputting, but I think it was a perfect touch and something different compared to the typical wood-grilled treatment. The mushroom/ cream/wine sauce was light, graceful and perfect with anything on the plate, from the potatoes to the stuffing to the meat. For my sides I chose the baked macaroni and cheese (excellent, a bit less creamy than most expect, but a style I'm familiar with from my Midwestern childhood) and the chunky mashed potatoes that didn't need gravy or butter to hold my interest. Overall, it was just such a well-executed plate that I couldn't believe the price was that low.

Also popular at the cafe are the "dippers," sandwiches ranging in size from 6 to 24 inches long that include pulled pork and pit beef, from $10.95 to $27.95. Suitable for parties or even as a dare. There was also a pork scallopini marsala ($16.95) that almost tempted me away from the pork chop. And I've heard good things about the tri-tip ($12.95), the gorgonzola steak ($24.95) and the bone-in rib eye ($23.95).

The attention to detail even extended to the Italian dressing on my salad. It may or may not have been made on the premises, but it was a rich Italian creation, not some brackish off-the-shelf garbage that didn't deserve to be on fresh vegetables.

For dessert, we had to try the raspberry cobbler ($5.95). It was rich, thick, not too sweet and quickly consumed despite our pauses to savor it.

The Highland has a rich history. It's one of the oldest surviving buildings in Oildale, dating to the 1890s, and has been stunningly refurbished by Darriel and John D. Herron. They took over in 2007 and remodeled the bar with classy red mahogany and glass blocks they got from the China Club in Hollywood. The goal was to give it an Old World feel, and I have to say they succeeded.

Though the crowd was light and quiet on the Saturday night we visited, I have to say it wouldn't be so if people knew what was there. The beers they have on tap include Fat Tire, Blue Moon, Shocktop and Pacifico. Everyone has Pacifico in bottles, but on tap -- that's a nice touch. This is a place that reminds me of Ben Franklin's old quote, "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Just remember to tell your spouse that one the next time she sees a large pile of empties near the recliner.

The Highland Café can be recommended for a fine dining experience.