TheBakersfieldCalifornian.com

There will always be those who insist Bakersfield is a culinary backwater, with no adequate restaurants despite my many years of laboring to convince them otherwise. If I was limited to just one restaurant to make a case that we are not a wasteland, I would send them to Valentien Restaurant & Wine Bar.

Co-owners Jeramy Brown and Jennifer Sanderson have continued to innovate in their tiny space at the corner of Truxtun and Oak. This summer they were showing classic movies outdoors on Saturday nights and pairing them with appropriately themed cuisine. Like Cafe Med, T.L. Maxwell's and Imbibe, they've been offering wine dinners that draw positive emails from my readers. And I was pleased to find on a recent Saturday night visit that almost every table was full, and the customers looked distinctly pleased, as we were, by what the staff was offering. Frankly, our dining experience matched what we've had at great restaurants in Napa and Santa Barbara. Yes, it's a la carte, so the tab will add up, but it remains a perfect special occasion/expense account restaurant and the prix fixe lunch is a special value if you're on a budget and still want to visit.

There was one unfortunate development. The kitchen was cycling out of its summer menu on the September night we visited, so we were unable to try the watermelon salad ($8) that so many readers told me was wonderful (red onion, raspberry puree and arugula). Instead, for our first course, my companion selected the simple summer greens ($7, with tomatoes, green beans, beets and a Sherry vinaigrette) while I ordered the saffron and lobster stock seafood risotto ($12). The salad, presented in the circular disc manner, suffered from slightly wilted greens, possibly from the tart, assertive dressing, but was otherwise quite successful. My companion is not a fan of beets, but even she appreciated the mixture of flavors.

Don't order that amazing risotto if you're a person who believes in judging a restaurant by its portions. It was presented in a dish that could hold a golf ball, and included a bit of lobster, a bit of scallop and a small finger of whitefish on top. Here's the thing: You savor this small taste a bit more with portions like this. It forces you to think about each bite, the yellow and rich creamy rice, the hint of shellfish evident but not obvious or overwhelming. And with the wonderful little slices of fresh bread, it was a charming start to the meal. On the side on the plate was an amazing parsley avocado puree that worked with both the bread and the risotto. As with everything we were served, the presentation was food-magazine amazing.

For our entrees, my companion picked a pork dish with a mission fig sauce, quinoa (a grain) and broccolini (today's trendiest vegetable), while I selected the steak au poivre ($34). Both were so good we had to occasionally close our eyes to better concentrate on the sensations. My companion's pork was wrapped in bacon, and the figs were an inspired choice. The smoky genius of the bacon around the pork was invigorating. My peppercorn-encrusted steak (subtly done) was presented with a very light cognac pepper cream sauce on a mound of fresh cut French fries. The tender 6- to 8-ounce filet mignon was ordered medium and served medium. We ate slowly, and savored more.

At such a restaurant, you keep your eye on what others are enjoying if only to inspire future trips. I've enjoyed the braised beef short ribs there before, so that looked and smelled as good as ever, and we noticed another couple enjoying what looked like a perfect chocolate souffle ($10), so we ordered that when our entrees arrived without even checking into the rest of the dessert tray. We've always enjoyed the souffle Benji's offers, but this is a bit different: more compact, richer, denser and without that sauce that makes it seem so amazing. I'd definitely order it again.

The wine list at Valentien is another strength and includes some wines that stretch to near $1,000! The corkage fee policy is most interesting. It's $20 if you bring a bottle not on the list, $40 if your wine is already on their list, but the corkage fee is waived on a bottle if you buy one of their wines. A reasonable accommodation.

Service was exceptional, all the finest details covered to the point that when they ask if you'd like pepper on your salad, they offer a choice of coarse or finely ground. And if you want coffee, they'll prepare it at your table with one of those siphon vacuum coffee makers that look like a high school science experiment. We watched as the water in the lower globe, heated by a tiny glass flame, went up the center tube to the grounds on top after boiling, then returned after brewing was done to the chamber below. Captivating in an odd way, that's for sure.

Valentien Restaurant & Wine Bar is better than ever, and can be recommended for a fine dining experience.